Down to removing any and all USB devices and listening for changes in the noise. make sure the power phase you're at in your domicile isn't loaded with things like washing machines, fridges, AC, basically devices that have protected metal enclosures I'm in the UK, it's all single phase power here unless you're in a massive house. with the volume slightly bumped up, try moving varous wires around (including power wires) and see if you can hear a difference/crackling Will give it a go. disable power saving in bios or in windows (make sure all clocks are 100% all the time) What's the thinking behind this? make sure there are no power lines running adjacent to signal wires around your equipment Difficult, the wiring is in the walls! try a different splitter cable 100% not the cable, it works fine on say my phone. make sure you're powering your speakers from the same outlet as your computer It's all on the same ring. if overclocked, revert to stock for a while Will do. Hi Boonie, came to the same conclusion myself! Out of interest, will getting a USB DAC / Soundcard (rather than PCIe) help? is the noise changing? any factors like the selected volume (computer side), time of day, anything at all which alters the phenomenon? is the noise present when you are just in CMOS setup? make sure the power phase you're at in your domicile isn't loaded with things like washing machines, fridges, AC, basically devices that have protected metal enclosures with the volume slightly bumped up, try moving varous wires around (including power wires) and see if you can hear a difference/crackling disable power saving in bios or in windows (make sure all clocks are 100% all the time) make sure there are no power lines running adjacent to signal wires around your equipment make sure you're powering your speakers from the same outlet as your computer if overclocked, revert to stock for a while I'll throw a few blanket statements that you might try - I hope you can get your nice speakers to work. You mentioned fiddling (hm!) with the audio settings. If anyone has any suggestions they would be much appreciated. I'm getting my Google on but struggling to find any real fixes. Moving the card to a different slot and then reinstalling the drivers.Ĥ. Uninstalling and reinstalling the SB-Z drivers.ģ. Fiddling with the speaker / audio settings in both Windows and the the SB-Z utility.Ģ. So this means it's down to the output of the SB-Z, the SB-Z itself or my PC in general (Gaming machine in sig).ġ. It's 100% not the cable because when I use the same cable on say my Smartphone the speakers sound completely clean. I've connected them up to the Front L / R output of the SB-Z via a 3.5mm to RCA splitter and immediately, I noticed I am getting a lot of noise / interference on the speakers. However, this week I picked up a pair of KRK Rokit RP5 monitors. I've been using my Soundblaster Z for a while now (years in fact) with headphones (DT 880 Pro) only and never really noticed any issues. Please also be noted that our virtual sound card driver has already been digitally signed with Microsoft, so it supports for bothģ2 bits & 64 bits of Vista/Windows 7/Windows 8/Windows 10/Windows 11.Hoping someone can give me some pointers before I throw the towel in and get an external DAC or something. Virtual Audio Streaming can recognize & split sounds to different wav files per audio stream automatically. īesides manually controlling the recording duration time, you also have the option to record sounds per audio stream. Record online streaming music/audio, chatting/meeting voice, game sound, Internet radio, etc.Record Skype voice, with people's and your voice mixed together or separated.It is done by our kernel-mode virtual audio card driver to ensure the Virtual Audio Streaming can record ALL sounds that played from your computer. What you hear is what you get! Virtual Audio Streaming also fixes the ' no stereo mix' problem of Vista/Windows 7/Windows 8/Windows 10/Windows 11/Windows Server/Remote desktop.
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